
The sound of cracking ice in nature is distinctive. It’s like a rifle shot, then a slight groan as the new pieces find their place together. That was the sound I heard recently as I rested on the top of a ridge overlooking a waterfall basin that held the last vestiges of a glacier.
I was on a hike with several friends on the north side of Mt. Hood, near Portland, Oregon. The day was brilliant, with clear views of Mt. St. Helens, Rainier, and Mt. Adams to the north; the dry fields of eastern Oregon behind us; a vividly blue sky above; and an abundance of blooming wildflowers surrounding us on our path.
We had stopped at a ravine carrying the rushing water from the glacial melt that occurs constantly during the summer months on the mountain. There was a spectacular view of a two-tiered waterfall above us, with the snow-capped peak beyond that. The top section of the waterfall fell about 60 feet into the basin before finding its way under the melting glacier for about 30 feet before it fell again another 20 feet or so.

As we reached the ravine, several of my companions sat by the river, pulling off their shoes to dip their toes in the ice-cold water. Two of them climbed to the lower falls and ducked under the falling water.
I was intrigued by the glacier, which extended in an arch above the basin. From the view below, it looked like a cavern one could climb into. The day was hot, I was curious, and it looked accessible. I started to climb up the steep, rocky terrain to get a better view. Two friends, Liz and Dawn, followed me to the ridge overlooking the basin.

As they settled in to have a bite to eat, I put my pack down and with trekking poles assisting me, climbed down the remaining 15 feet or so to the water’s edge, just below the east end of the glacier’s arch. The terrain was steep and rough, so I moved carefully, realizing that a slip could mean falling into the rushing water of the waterfall, and possibly over the edge. I moved closer to the glacier and, reaching up, felt the bluish-gray ice with my left hand, my right one firmly gripping my trekking pole as it steadied me.

As I viewed the underside of the arching ice, I marveled at the idea that this piece of frozen water had been there for possibly hundreds of years. Through time, the runoff from above had melted the underside of the glacier to create an archway that I could put my 6-foot frame under with ease. How often does one get to touch a glacier, much less stand underneath one? I took a deep breath and moved two more steps deeper into the arch.
At this point the sensation turned from one of fascination to one of eeriness. My body started to feel uncomfortable. I wrestled with the idea of traveling through the cavern of ice to the natural doorway at the back of the glacier through which the upper waterfall could be seen cascading down the rocks into the basin. My head said, “Go for it. This glacier has been here for hundreds of years. What makes you think it’s going to fall down today?” My body, however, was frozen in the spot.

I started to look around at just what was holding up the weight of the ancient ice. There was a seam above me delicately holding the upper piece of the glacier against a lower, smaller piece. That didn’t look too promising. My head said, “Go for it. It’s a good day to die.” My body said, “Not today.”
I was getting wet by that time, with all of the water melting from the icy arch, as well as the spray from the waterfall. I thought to myself, “If I go through that doorway, my camera is going to get soaked.” Then I looked down and saw the bottom of the smaller piece of the glacier. It looked like the roots of a tree when water has eroded the dirt, but the tree is still standing. There wasn’t much holding it all up.
My head said, “Wouldn’t it be great to experience walking beneath a glacier?” My body responded with a chill up my spine. I stood there for minutes trying to decide. Then the thought occurred to me: “If something happens to me, that leaves the responsibility to the rest of the group. It’s not fair to them for me to be irresponsible.” I backed away. As I turned to make my way back to my friends on the ridge above me one of them pulled out her camera and took a picture of me under the arch.

When I got back to them, they said they had been yelling at me, trying to get my attention. I hadn’t heard them; the noise from the waterfall had been so loud. I told them that the arch seemed fairly unstable, and that, “…it might melt for another hundred years before that crack gives way, but I don't want to be underneath it if it fell today.”
I went on to describe more of my experience, then Dawn said she might go down to see what it was like. I smiled and told her what I had thought to myself when I was down there. I winked, and then said to her, “It’s a good day to die.”
She looked at me, looked down at the glacier, then reconsidered. She and Liz began to descend the other side of the ridge to the rest of the group. I sat down and pulled out something to eat, gazing out on the incredible view, with my friends below. Nadine and Renee were still playing in the lower falls. I watched as a man set up a tripod to take pictures of the glacier and falls.

As I looked to the north, I saw Mt. St. Helens burp a cloud of steam. I had my camera out and took some shots. Then, as I began to replace the lens cover, I heard the shot ring out from the basin to my left. I knew immediately what it was.
I turned to look down as the roots of the lower section gave way. My first thought was that with enough momentum, it would fall over the bottom of the basin and crush Nadine and Renee below. I screamed to everyone below that the glacier was falling, get out of the way! Then, I watched, as if in slow-motion, the bottom piece crumble, then the main archway collapse, then all of the chunks rolling on top of each other, finally coming to rest exactly where I had been standing less than fifteen minutes earlier!

I stood there in stupefied amazement. Not only had I just witnessed nature in its most elemental form, I was jarred by the realization that I had nearly been under its crushing journey.
Minutes passed. My friends were yelling at me, asking if I was okay. I remember yelling down to them that they would have to excuse me, as I was a little stunned at the moment. I stared at where I had just been, and what was now a thick pile of crushed ice. The natural dam that the newly formed mound created briefly stopped the flow of the river. Within moments, the water found its new path, carrying the years of soil buildup from the glacier’s steady movement, turning what had been a clear stream to brown. And the water began to fall off the lower ledge again.
I took a few pictures of the collapsed heap, then in adrenaline-charged shock, began to climb down the ridge to meet with the group. As I was walking the last few yards to join them, the man who had been setting up his camera to take pictures told me that he had unfortunately missed the collapse of the glacier. He had taken shots afterward, but hadn’t had time to get the action. I told him that I had been so amazed by what was happening, that I had forgotten I was holding my camera in my hands. Later, as he walked past me on the trail, he said, “You should go buy a lottery ticket. It seems you’ve got a bit of luck going.” I agreed.
By the time I reached the trail back to camp, several people had already started the return trip. Nadine and Renee had decided to hike to the next ravine, so I joined them. As soon as we arrived a few minutes later, I knew I had to return to camp alone and think about what had just happened. I turned around and headed back.
So many thoughts entered my mind. I breathed deep, inhaling the multi-layered smells from the flowers on the mountain slopes, then slowly, began the trip back to camp.
To be continued...